Wellness · Nov - Apr
PADI Open Water on Swaraj Dweep
Four days of certification with a resident school, then two fun dives at the outer pinnacles once you are qualified.
From US$2,025 per person
Overview
Swaraj Dweep, renamed from Havelock in 2018 but still universally called Havelock, lies about 40 km northeast of Port Blair in the Ritchie's Archipelago. It is roughly 113 square kilometres of low forested land with one principal road running from the jetty at Village No. 1 to Radhanagar at No. 7. Most accommodation and all the dive schools cluster at Govind Nagar on the eastern shore.
The island was settled from the 1950s onward by Bengali families displaced after Partition, which is why the village numbers persist and why the food leans Bengali. Tourism arrived properly in the 1990s, led by a handful of eco-resorts near Radhanagar. The 2004 tsunami damaged the jetty area, and the reefs suffered a bleaching event in 2010 from which recovery has been uneven but real.
The reason divers from Europe and America come is geography. These islands are the peaks of a drowned mountain range, so sites like Dixon's Pinnacle and Johnny's Gorge are submerged seamounts in eighteen to thirty metres, with schooling fish, rays and visibility that can exceed thirty metres between December and April. Above water the attraction is simpler: one superb beach and very little else to do.
Hand-held, every step
You travel as our guest, not as a booking number. One named person looks after you from the first video call to the drive back to the airport, and explains the meaning behind everything you are looking at.
In Havelock Island (Swaraj Dweep) that matters most where the crowds are thickest and the customs least familiar.
- Airport welcome with a name board, a local SIM and your first rupees sorted
- One trip manager on WhatsApp for the whole journey, answering within the hour
- Guides who explain each ritual, dish and carving as you meet it
- Reserved, safe places at festivals rather than the crush
- A real part in a puja, a wedding or a family celebration if you want one
- Female guide on request, vetted drivers, and no shopping-commission stops
Festivals worth planning a trip around
Hindu, Jain, Buddhist and Islamic dates follow lunar calendars, so each year shifts. We confirm every date against the panchang before a departure goes on sale.
| Festival | When | What happens |
|---|---|---|
| Beach Festival, Swaraj Dweep | Feb-Mar | Dive demonstrations, music and food stalls at Govind Nagar, timed for the calmest sea and best visibility of the year. |
| Durga Puja | Sep-Oct | The Bengali settler villages build pandals and the island effectively closes for the days of worship. |
| Kali Puja and Diwali | Oct-Nov | Lamps through the settler villages, with the Bengali Kali observance taking precedence over Diwali here. |
| Island Tourism Festival | Jan | Centred on Port Blair, but Havelock resorts and dive schools run their own events and open days alongside it. |
| Poila Boishakh | Mid-Apr | Bengali new year, marked in the village settlements with new clothes, sweets and community meals. |
| Christmas | Dec | Services at the island's churches, and the start of the peak season for the resorts and dive schools. |
Food to try in Havelock Island (Swaraj Dweep)
Ranked the way a local host would feed you, starting with the dish you should not leave without.
- Grilled fish at the beach shacksSnapper, trevally or tuna off the morning boats, grilled whole with lime and garlic at Govind Nagar.
- Lobster, in seasonExpensive and not always available, grilled simply at the beach restaurants near Radhanagar; order in the afternoon.
- Andaman mud crabCooked with butter and pepper or in coconut curry; every kitchen needs a few hours' notice.
- Shorshe machBengali mustard fish, cooked by the settler families whose grandparents came from East Bengal.
- Prawn coconut curryMild and rich with locally pressed coconut milk, the island's most ordered dish.
- Fish thali at the village eateriesRice, dal, a vegetable and fried fish for very little money, inland from the tourist strip.
- Bamboo-steamed fishA simple island preparation with turmeric and green chilli, done at a few of the older shacks.
- Wood-fired pizza and bakery foodSeveral long-running cafes at Govind Nagar bake properly, which matters on a long diving trip.
- Tender coconutSold all along the beach road and at the Radhanagar entrance; the right drink after three dives.
- Note on supplyVegetables and dairy arrive by ferry, so menus thin out after rough weather and the smaller shacks close in monsoon.
Heritage sites in Havelock Island (Swaraj Dweep)
- Radhanagar Beach (Beach No. 7)A kilometre and a half of white sand facing west, repeatedly named India's finest beach and backed by protected forest.
- Elephant BeachA reef-fronted beach reached by boat or a muddy forest walk, named for the elephants once used in island logging.
- Dixon's PinnacleA submerged seamount dive site in roughly eighteen to thirty metres, known for schooling fish and clear water.
- Johnny's GorgeA long-established dive site over a sandy gorge, with rays, groupers and reef sharks on good days.
- Govind Nagar and the village numbersThe settler villages are still known by number, a legacy of planned Bengali resettlement from the 1950s.
- Kalapathar BeachA black-rock shore on the eastern side, good at sunrise and quieter than Radhanagar.
- Neil's CoveThe lagoon at the northern end of Radhanagar, with calm water and a marked swimming limit.
- Island logging and jetty heritageThe old timber-extraction infrastructure and the tsunami-damaged jetty area tell the island's working history.
Places to visit in Havelock Island (Swaraj Dweep)
- Radhanagar BeachThe headline beach at Village No. 7, best in the last hour before sunset.
- Govind Nagar beach stripVillage No. 3, where the dive schools, cafes and most accommodation are.
- Elephant BeachSnorkelling and watersports, reached by a 20-minute boat ride from the jetty.
- KalapatharThe eastern black-rock coast, with a quiet road and a good sunrise.
- Neil's CoveThe sheltered lagoon beyond Radhanagar's northern end, reached on foot through forest.
- The jetty at Village No. 1Where every ferry arrives and departs; the island's one point of connection.
- Inland forest roadThe single main road crossing the island, pleasant on a scooter and lined with settler farmland.
- Mangrove creeks on the eastern shoreKayaking channels including night paddles to see bioluminescence in the right conditions.
Waterfalls, lakes and wild places
December to April brings the calmest sea and visibility that can pass thirty metres on the outer sites. Swim between the flags at Radhanagar where lifeguards are posted, respect the marked limit at Neil's Cove, never touch or stand on coral, and accept that dive boats and ferries simply do not run in rough monsoon weather.
- Radhanagar BeachVillage No. 7, west coast; swimmable white sand with lifeguards and a shore break that can be strong.
- Neil's CoveNorth end of Radhanagar; a calm lagoon, with a marked swimming boundary because of crocodile sightings in the past.
- Elephant BeachBoat access from the jetty; shallow reef for snorkelling, busy with day trippers by mid-morning.
- Dixon's Pinnacle and Johnny's GorgeOffshore dive sites in 18-30 metres, best visibility December to April.
- KalapatharEast coast; rocky and shallow, better for walking and sunrise than for swimming.
- Mangrove creeks, eastern shoreKayak channels through mangrove, with bioluminescence on dark nights in the right season.
Where to stay in Havelock Island (Swaraj Dweep)
Properties we would put our own guests in. Your package includes the level you choose, and we hold rooms before festival dates.
- Taj Exotica Resort and SpaRadhanagar; beachfront villas, the only true luxury property in the islandsLuxury
- Barefoot at HavelockNear Radhanagar; the long-established eco-resort that opened the island to tourismBoutique
- SeaShell HavelockGovind Nagar; comfortable and central for the dive schools and the jettyUpscale
- Symphony Palms Beach ResortGovind Nagar beach side; established cottages with a pool and gardenUpscale
- Silver Sand Beach ResortGovind Nagar; a long-running mid-range beachfront optionMid-range
- Dive school guest houses, Govind NagarSimple rooms attached to the PADI schools, the practical choice on a courseMid-range
- Beachside cottages, Village No. 5Small owner-run places between the jetty and Radhanagar, quiet and good valueBoutique
- Fortune Resort Bay Island, Port BlairNot on the island, but the usual comfortable first and last night by the airportUpscale
Evenings out and culture
| Place | What it is |
|---|---|
| Dive school evenings, Govind Nagar | Log sessions, briefings and film nights at the PADI schools are the island's actual social life. |
| Beach shacks at Govind Nagar | Licensed shacks and resorts serve alcohol, and the strip stays open a little later than the rest of the islands. |
| Radhanagar at sunset | Not a venue, but the whole island converges on the sand for the last half hour of light, which comes before six. |
| Beach Festival performances | Music, dive demonstrations and food stalls in the February or March calm-season festival. |
| Note on early nights | With darkness by about five and dive boats leaving at dawn, Havelock is quiet by ten almost every night. |
Getting to Havelock Island (Swaraj Dweep) by air
| Airport or route | Detail |
|---|---|
| Veer Savarkar International, Port Blair (IXZ) | The only airport; from there it is a 90 minute to 2 hour ferry, so you cannot reach Havelock and fly out the same day. |
| From the UK and Europe | No direct flights; London or Frankfurt to Chennai, Kolkata or Delhi, overnight, then IXZ, then the ferry. |
| From the USA | Three flights plus a ferry; allow 32 to 36 hours door to door with a mainland overnight. |
| Seaplane and helicopter | Limited services have operated between Port Blair and Havelock but are weather-dependent and unreliable to plan around. |
| Buffer day advice | Always keep a night in Port Blair before your mainland flight, because a cancelled ferry otherwise costs you the flight. |
Trains and road to Havelock Island (Swaraj Dweep)
| Route or station | Detail |
|---|---|
| No railway in the islands | There is no rail anywhere in the territory; Havelock is reached only by ferry from Port Blair. |
| Private catamaran ferries | Makruzz and similar operators run air-conditioned services from Phoenix Bay in about 90 minutes; book well ahead in season. |
| Government ferries | Cheaper and slower at around two hours, with seats released closer to departure and long queues at the counter. |
| Havelock to Neil Island | A 45 minute to one hour hop by the same catamaran services, usually once or twice daily. |
| Mainland rail to the gateways | Chennai Central and Howrah serve the two main airports for Port Blair flights. |
| Island transport | Scooter hire, autos and shared jeeps cover the one main road from the jetty to Radhanagar, about 12 km. |
Weather, seasons and best time to visit Havelock Island (Swaraj Dweep)
December to April for the flattest sea and the clearest water, with February and March the best of it. Skip June to August, when ferries and dive boats are unreliable, and plan every day around a sunset that arrives before six.
| Months | Season | Day temperature | What to expect |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dec-Feb | Dry and clear | 24-30°C / 75-86°F | Peak conditions. Flat sea, thirty-metre visibility on the outer pinnacles, and the beach at its best. |
| Mar-May | Hot and humid | 25-31°C / 77-88°F | Diving stays good into April with 29°C water; May brings squalls and the first cancelled crossings. |
| Jun-Aug | Southwest monsoon | 24-30°C / 75-86°F | Heavy rain, rough ferries and most dive schools closed or on reduced operation. |
| Sep-Nov | Retreating monsoon | 24-30°C / 75-86°F | Improving through October, with November a genuinely good and much cheaper shoulder month. |
Havelock Island (Swaraj Dweep) tour packages
Per person, twin sharing, excluding international flights. Hotels, private transport, guides, entries, your trip manager and 24-hour support are included.
Location · Oct - May
Radhanagar, Reefs and Mangroves
Snorkelling at Elephant Beach, a kayak through the mangrove creeks, and three sunsets on the best beach in India.
From US$1,600 per person
Festival · Feb - Mar 2027
Beach Festival and Calm Season Diving
The February dive demonstrations and music at Govind Nagar, paired with the year's clearest water offshore.
From US$1,925 per person
Wildlife · Dec - Apr
Reef Life with a Marine Biologist
Guided snorkel and dive sessions reading coral health, bleaching recovery and reef fish behaviour with a specialist.
From US$2,138 per person
Take part, don't just watch
Add any of these to a tour. A host stays beside you and tells you what is happening and why it is done that way.
Certification dives with a resident instructor
A PADI instructor who has worked these reefs for years takes you from pool skills to a sloping wall where the bottom falls away at eighteen metres. On the surface interval she explains how the 2010 bleaching changed which sites she now teaches on.
Night kayak for bioluminescence
A local guide paddles you into the mangrove creeks on a dark night, when disturbing the water sets off plankton light. He explains the tide and moon conditions that make it work and why it fails on bright nights.
Fish market and shack kitchen at Govind Nagar
You meet the morning boats with a shack cook, choose a fish together, and watch it go straight onto the grill with lime and garlic. He explains which species the island eats and which the mainland flights take away.
Settler history walk through the villages
A Bengali family whose grandparents arrived in the 1950s walks you through the numbered villages, the farmland and the church, explaining resettlement after Partition. They finish with mustard fish cooked the way it was in East Bengal.
Questions travellers ask about Havelock Island (Swaraj Dweep)
Why should I visit Havelock?
For a beach that earns its reputation and diving that is genuinely world-class. Radhanagar is a kilometre and a half of white sand facing west into the sunset, and the offshore seamounts at Dixon's Pinnacle and Johnny's Gorge give thirty-metre visibility in season. There is little else to do, which is rather the point.
When is the best time to visit Havelock?
December to April, with 24-31°C days, flat water and the year's clearest visibility, peaking in February and March. May brings squalls. June to August is the southwest monsoon, when ferries are cancelled and most dive schools close. November is an excellent, cheaper shoulder month as the sea settles.
How do I get to Havelock, and do I need a permit?
Fly to Port Blair, then take a 90 minute to two hour ferry from Phoenix Bay; book the air-conditioned catamarans well ahead in season. Foreign nationals can visit Havelock, and historically a Restricted Area Permit is issued on arrival at Port Blair airport, though rules change, so confirm the current requirement before flying.
Can I learn to dive here as a complete beginner?
Yes. Several long-established PADI schools at Govind Nagar run Open Water courses over four days, and the sheltered house reefs are good training ground. Water temperature sits around 27 to 29°C, so a shorty suit is enough. Budget six nights in total so weather delays do not cost you the certification.
Is Havelock safe for solo female travellers?
Yes, notably so. It is a small island with a tourism economy that depends on visitors feeling secure, and solo travellers are common at the dive schools. Water safety is the real concern: swim between the lifeguard flags at Radhanagar, respect the marked limit at Neil's Cove, and never dive beyond your certification.
What does a Havelock trip cost?
Our ground cost is about US$1,280 for five nights with snorkelling and mangroves, US$1,540 for the February festival dates, US$1,620 for the PADI certification programme and US$1,710 for the marine biologist itinerary, per person sharing. Island costs exceed the mainland because everything arrives by ship. International and mainland flights are extra.
How many days do I need on the island?
Three nights is the minimum that justifies the ferry, and five is better if you are diving at all. A certification course needs four days in the water plus a buffer. Always keep a night in Port Blair before your mainland flight home, because a cancelled ferry will otherwise cost you that flight.
What should I expect to eat, and are there vegetarian options?
Fish off the morning boats, mud crab, prawns in coconut milk and Bengali mustard fish from the settler kitchens, plus some surprisingly good bakeries at Govind Nagar. Vegetarians can eat adequately but choice is limited because produce comes by ferry. Tell your resort in advance, and vegans should expect a narrow menu.
Nearby and related
Most guests pair Havelock Island (Swaraj Dweep) with one or two of these on the same trip.