India › Gujarat › Gir and Somnath

Gir and Somnath: The Last Wild Asiatic Lions and a Temple Rebuilt Six Times

About 670 Asiatic lions live in this dry teak forest and nowhere else on earth. An hour south stands Somnath, a Shiva shrine destroyed and raised again across a thousand years, now facing the Arabian Sea with nothing between it and Antarctica.

Nearest airport
Rajkot (HSR) 160 km, or Diu (DIU) 110 km; Keshod is closer but limited
Metro or rail
No metro. Veraval (VRL) is the railhead, 45 km from Sasan Gir
Train from Ahmedabad
Roughly 8 to 9 hours to Veraval, usually overnight
Best time
December to April; park closed 16 Jun to 15 Oct
Days needed
3 nights, giving four safaris
Known for
Asiatic lions, Somnath jyotirlinga, Maldhari herders, and no alcohol

Overview

Gir covers about 1,400 square kilometres of dry deciduous teak and acacia in the Saurashtra peninsula, with a core national park of roughly 258 square kilometres. The forest is scrubbier and more open than the tiger reserves of central India, cut by seven rivers and a scatter of waterholes. Around 670 lions now live here, along with leopard, hyena, chital, sambar and the hefty nilgai.

The lions survive because a Nawab of Junagadh banned hunting them in the 1900s, when perhaps twenty were left. They have recovered to the point where many now live outside the sanctuary among villages and farms. Unusually, the Maldhari herding families were never entirely removed: several hundred still keep buffalo in forest settlements called nesses, which makes this a reserve where people and large predators genuinely share ground.

Somnath, about 45 kilometres south, is one of the twelve jyotirlingas and among the most contested sites in Indian history, sacked repeatedly from 1026 and rebuilt for the last time in 1951. Junagadh to the north adds Girnar hill, with 4,000 steps up to twelfth-century Jain temples and Ashokan edicts at the base. Western visitors usually combine all three over three or four nights.

Hand-held, every step

You travel as our guest, not as a booking number. One named person looks after you from the first video call to the drive back to the airport, and explains the meaning behind everything you are looking at.

In Gir and Somnath that matters most where the crowds are thickest and the customs least familiar.

  • Airport welcome with a name board, a local SIM and your first rupees sorted
  • One trip manager on WhatsApp for the whole journey, answering within the hour
  • Guides who explain each ritual, dish and carving as you meet it
  • Reserved, safe places at festivals rather than the crush
  • A real part in a puja, a wedding or a family celebration if you want one
  • Female guide on request, vetted drivers, and no shopping-commission stops

Festivals worth planning a trip around

Hindu, Jain, Buddhist and Islamic dates follow lunar calendars, so each year shifts. We confirm every date against the panchang before a departure goes on sale.

FestivalWhenWhat happens
Maha Shivratri at SomnathFeb-Mar (Phalguna, lunar)Night-long worship at the jyotirlinga with continuous abhishek, lamps along the seafront and pilgrim queues stretching well beyond the temple grounds.
Bhavnath Mahadev Fair, JunagadhFeb-Mar (Maha Shivratri, lunar)Five days at the foot of Girnar, with naga sadhus arriving in procession, all-night bhajans and ritual bathing in the Mrugi Kund.
Kartik Purnima at SomnathOct-Nov (full moon, lunar)Pilgrims bathe in the sea at the Triveni Sangam where three rivers meet the ocean, followed by a large fair beside the temple.
Girnar ParikramaNov-Dec (Kartik, lunar)A five-day, 36 kilometre circumambulation of Girnar hill through the forest, walked overnight by hundreds of thousands of pilgrims.
JanmashtamiAug-Sep (Bhadrapada, lunar)Falls during the park closure. Marked at the Saurashtra temples with midnight prayers, fasting and dahi handi pot breaking in the towns.
NavratriSep-Oct (Ashwin, lunar)Nine nights of Kathiyawadi garba in the villages around Junagadh and Veraval, with a rougher, faster step than the Ahmedabad style.

Food to try in Gir and Somnath

Ranked the way a local host would feed you, starting with the dish you should not leave without.

  1. Kathiyawadi thaliThe hot, garlicky Saurashtra plate with sev tameta, lasan chutney and bajra rotla. Served at the Junagadh and Sasan thali houses.
  2. Sev tameta nu shaakTomato curry topped with crisp gram-flour sev, the dish that defines Kathiyawadi cooking. On every local menu.
  3. Bajra rotla with lasan chutneyMillet flatbread with a fierce raw garlic and red chilli paste, eaten with buttermilk by the Maldhari herders.
  4. Ringna no oloSmoked and mashed aubergine with garlic and green chilli, cooked over embers at the village kitchens.
  5. Kesar mango from GirThe Gir Kesar is a protected-origin mango grown on the forest fringe, in season May and June only.
  6. Gir cow ghee and milkThe indigenous Gir cattle breed is prized across India for its milk. Sold at the dairy cooperatives around Sasan.
  7. Veraval fish thaliA rare non-vegetarian option in Gujarat. The Veraval fishing harbour is one of India's largest, and the local kitchens serve pomfret and surmai.
  8. Ganthiya and chutneyThick gram-flour sticks eaten mid-morning with fried chillies and chai at the Junagadh stalls.
  9. Chaas with garlicSaurashtra buttermilk, sharper and more heavily spiced than the northern version, drunk with every meal.
  10. Lodge safari breakfastsHot thepla, pickle and chai packed for a 6am drive, which is how most guests actually eat here.

Heritage sites in Gir and Somnath

  1. Somnath TempleA Shiva jyotirlinga on the coast, sacked repeatedly from 1026 and rebuilt in 1951 in the Chalukya style, with the sea directly behind the sanctum.
  2. Girnar Jain TemplesTwelfth-century temple cluster reached by about 4,000 stone steps up a volcanic hill, with the Neminath and Mallinath shrines the oldest.
  3. Ashokan Edicts, JunagadhRock inscriptions from around 250 BCE at the base of Girnar, carrying Emperor Ashoka's fourteen edicts in Brahmi script.
  4. Uparkot Fort, JunagadhAn ancient hill citadel with two stepwells, the Adi Kadi Vav and Navghan Kuvo, cut directly into living rock.
  5. Mahabat Maqbara, JunagadhA nineteenth-century Nawabi mausoleum with silver doors and spiral staircases wrapped around its minarets.
  6. Bhalka TirthWhere Krishna is said to have been struck by an arrow and left the world, 5 km from Somnath beside the Triveni Sangam.
  7. Sasan Gir Interpretation Zone, DevaliaA fenced 412 hectare enclosure where lions can be seen reliably on a bus tour, used when park permits are unavailable.
  8. Khambhalida CavesSecond-century Buddhist rock-cut caves near Rajkot, with a large carved Bodhisattva flanking the central chaitya entrance.

Places to visit in Gir and Somnath

  1. Gir National Park, SasanThe core safari zone, entered on permit in open jeeps at fixed morning and afternoon slots.
  2. Devalia Safari ParkA fenced interpretation zone 12 km from Sasan with near-guaranteed lion sightings from a bus.
  3. Somnath seafrontThe temple, the Triveni Sangam bathing point and a long stretch of open Arabian Sea.
  4. JunagadhThe old Nawabi capital with Uparkot fort, the Ashokan edicts and the Girnar climb.
  5. Maldhari nessesForest settlements where herding families keep buffalo inside the sanctuary, visited with a forest guide.
  6. Veraval harbourOne of India's largest fishing ports, with wooden trawlers packed hull to hull and a working fish market at dawn.
  7. Kamleshwar DamA reservoir inside the sanctuary holding marsh crocodiles, often included on an afternoon drive route.
  8. DiuNinety kilometres south-east, the Portuguese-era island where alcohol is legal, which many visitors use as a break.

Waterfalls, lakes and wild places

The park's waterholes shrink from March onward, which concentrates lions and makes April the strongest sighting month despite the heat. Gir closes entirely from 16 June to 15 October. The Saurashtra coast has powerful currents and almost no lifeguards, so treat Somnath beach as a place to walk rather than swim.

  1. Kamleshwar DamInside the sanctuary, a reservoir on the Hiran river with a large marsh crocodile population and good dusk birding.
  2. Hiran river waterholesScattered through the park, these are where lions, nilgai and sambar come to drink through the dry months.
  3. Triveni Sangam, SomnathWhere the Hiran, Kapila and Saraswati rivers meet the Arabian Sea, used for ritual bathing and cremation.
  4. Somnath beachA wide open beach beside the temple with strong currents and no lifeguards, suited to walking rather than swimming.
  5. Ahmedpur Mandvi beachNear Diu, a calmer sandy stretch with water sports, about two hours from Sasan Gir.
  6. Hingolgadh and Saurashtra pondsSeasonal village tanks across the peninsula that fill with waterfowl and cranes between December and February.

Where to stay in Gir and Somnath

Properties we would put our own guests in. Your package includes the level you choose, and we hold rooms before festival dates.

  1. The Gir Lodge, Sasan GirOn the Hiran river at the park edge, a long-running Taj propertyUpscale
  2. The Fern Gir Forest ResortSasan Gir; an established eco-certified resort near the park gateUpscale
  3. Lion Safari Camp, Sasan GirDeva Dungar; tented cottages on a mango farm outside the sanctuaryBoutique
  4. Woods at SasanSasan Gir; garden cottages with naturalists and permit assistanceMid-range
  5. Hotel Lords Inn SomnathSomnath; close to the temple with sea-facing roomsMid-range
  6. The Fern SomnathSomnath; a modern beachside property near the temple complexUpscale
  7. Hotel Sarovar Portico, SomnathSomnath; reliable rooms within walking distance of the jyotirlingaMid-range
  8. Forest-edge lodges, Sasan GirSeveral long-established lodges along the Sasan road with safari desksMid-range

Evenings out and culture

PlaceWhat it is
No bars in the districtGujarat prohibition applies. Lodges hold no liquor licence, and the nearest legal drink is Diu, 90 km away in the union territory.
Somnath sound and light showAn evening projection and narration on the temple wall with the sea behind it, run in Hindi and English sittings.
Lodge naturalist talksMost Sasan properties run evening slide presentations on lion behaviour and the Maldhari grazing system, given by resident guides.
Kathiyawadi folk eveningsDhol, jodiya pava flutes and Siddi Dhamal drumming staged at the larger Gir resorts through the winter season.
Dawn chai at the Sasan permit gateThe genuine social hour, when drivers and guides trade news of the previous evening's sightings before the 6am slot.

Getting to Gir and Somnath by air

Airport or routeDetail
Rajkot (HSR)One hundred and sixty kilometres north, about three hours by road, with domestic flights from Mumbai, Delhi and Ahmedabad.
Diu (DIU)One hundred and ten kilometres south-east, roughly two and a half hours, with limited services from Mumbai and Ahmedabad.
Via Ahmedabad (AMD)Non-stop from London, then a six-hour drive or a flight to Rajkot or Keshod. The usual route for UK and European guests.
Via Mumbai (BOM)Non-stop from London, Newark, Frankfurt, Paris and Zurich, then a short hop to Rajkot or Diu and a road transfer.
Keshod (IXK)The closest strip at 90 km, with very limited flights. Useful only when schedules happen to align with your dates.

Trains and road to Gir and Somnath

Route or stationDetail
Veraval (VRL)The main railhead, 45 km from Sasan Gir and 7 km from Somnath, with taxis for both. The practical arrival by train.
Ahmedabad to VeravalEight to nine hours, usually taken overnight on the Somnath Express, arriving in time for an afternoon safari.
Mumbai to VeravalRoughly eighteen to twenty hours on direct services. Most visitors fly to Rajkot or Diu instead.
Junagadh Junction (JND)Sixty kilometres north, the railhead for Girnar hill and Uparkot, with frequent Saurashtra connections.
Sasan Gir stationA small halt on the Junagadh to Veraval narrow-gauge line, with very limited services, so most guests transfer by road.

Weather, seasons and best time to visit Gir and Somnath

December to April is the window, with December to February most pleasant at 16-30°C / 61-86°F and March to April giving the best lion sightings at the waterholes. The park is shut from 16 June to 15 October, so avoid the monsoon entirely.

MonthsSeasonDay temperatureWhat to expect
Nov-FebWinter16-30°C / 61-86°FThe most comfortable season. Cool dawns at 10-14°C / 50-57°F for open jeep drives and warm, dry afternoons.
Mar-MaySummer30-42°C / 86-108°FHot, but the best sightings of the year as waterholes shrink and lions come to drink. April is the connoisseur's month.
Jun-SepMonsoon27-33°C / 81-91°FThe park closes from 16 June to 15 October for breeding. Around 900 mm of rain falls and the forest is inaccessible.
OctPost-monsoon24-34°C / 75-93°FThe park reopens on 16 October into thick green cover, which makes spotting harder but the forest at its most attractive.

Gir and Somnath tour packages

Per person, twin sharing, excluding international flights. Hotels, private transport, guides, entries, your trip manager and 24-hour support are included.

Wildlife · Nov - Apr

Asiatic Lions of Gir

3 nights · Sasan Gir

Four permitted jeep drives across different routes with a naturalist, plus the Devalia interpretation zone as a guaranteed backup sighting.

From US$1,500 per person

Location · Nov - Apr

Lions, Somnath and the Girnar Steps

5 nights · Sasan Gir, Somnath, Junagadh

Three safaris, the jyotirlinga at dawn with the sea behind it, and a pre-dawn climb of Girnar's 4,000 steps to the Jain temples.

From US$2,125 per person

Festival · Fixed dates - Feb/Mar 2027

Maha Shivratri at Somnath

4 nights · Somnath, Sasan Gir

Night worship at the jyotirlinga during the Shivratri vigil, the Bhavnath fair at Junagadh with its naga sadhu procession, and two lion drives.

From US$1,875 per person

Tradition · Nov - Apr

Maldhari Herders Inside the Forest

4 nights · Sasan Gir

Two safaris and a guided visit to a forest ness, where a Maldhari family explains buffalo herding alongside lions and what compensation looks like.

From US$1,750 per person

Take part, don't just watch

Add any of these to a tour. A host stays beside you and tells you what is happening and why it is done that way.

Visit a Maldhari ness with a forest guide

Inside the sanctuary a herding family receives you at their ness, a cluster of thorn-fenced huts, and pours buffalo milk chai. They explain how they move stock to avoid lions, what happens when a calf is taken, and why they chose to stay when others were resettled.

Stand at the Somnath jyotirlinga before the crowds

A temple priest takes you in for the early morning abhishek, when the lingam is bathed and the sea is audible behind the sanctum. He explains the six destructions and rebuildings, and why the arrow pillar claims an unobstructed line south to Antarctica.

Climb Girnar's four thousand steps by torchlight

You start at three in the morning with a local guide so the twelfth-century Jain temples arrive with first light. He points out the Ashokan rock edicts at the base, the chai stalls that have served climbers for decades, and where the parikrama route cuts off.

Track lions on foot in the buffer with a naturalist

Outside the core zone a naturalist walks you through scrub reading pugmarks, scrapes and alarm calls from chital and langur. You never approach an animal on foot, but you learn to see the forest the way a tracker does before the next jeep drive.

Questions travellers ask about Gir and Somnath

Why should I visit Gir?

Because it is the only place on earth with wild Asiatic lions. Roughly 670 live here, saved from near extinction when about twenty remained a century ago. The forest is open and dry so sightings are good, and the Maldhari herders who still graze buffalo inside the sanctuary make it a genuinely shared landscape.

When is the best time, and when is the park closed?

Gir closes completely from 16 June to 15 October for breeding and the monsoon. December to February is most comfortable at 16-30°C / 61-86°F with cold 10-14°C / 50-57°F dawns. March and April are hot at up to 42°C / 108°F but give the best sightings as waterholes shrink.

How do safari permits work, and will I see a lion?

Permits are issued online by the forest department in three daily slots, with a cap on vehicles, and they sell out weeks ahead in season. We book as soon as your dates are fixed. Over four drives most guests see lions. Devalia, a fenced interpretation zone, is a near-certain fallback.

Can I drink alcohol in the Gir and Somnath area?

No. Gujarat prohibition applies throughout, lodges hold no liquor licence, and Somnath is a major pilgrimage town where it would be doubly inappropriate. A permit obtained through a licensed hotel elsewhere in the state has nowhere to be used here. Diu, 90 km away, is the nearest legal exception.

Is this area safe for solo and female travellers?

Yes. Safaris are in licensed vehicles with a forest guide, and the towns are conservative and quiet. At Somnath dress modestly and expect security checks, including a ban on phones and cameras inside the temple. Road travel after dark is the real risk in Saurashtra, so we schedule transfers for daylight.

What does a Gir and Somnath trip cost?

Our ground cost is US$1,200 for three nights and four safaris at Sasan, US$1,400 for the Maldhari herder itinerary, US$1,500 over Maha Shivratri and US$1,700 for the five-night trip adding Somnath and Girnar. Permits, jeep hire and naturalist fees are included in each figure.

How many days do I need here?

Three nights at Sasan for four drives is the sensible minimum for lions. Five nights lets you add Somnath and the Girnar climb at Junagadh without rushing either. Many guests pair this with Diu for two beach nights afterwards, which also solves the alcohol question if that matters to you.

What is there to eat, and can I get fish?

Kathiyawadi food here is the hottest and most garlicky in Gujarat, built on bajra rotla, sev tameta and lasan chutney. Unusually for the state you can get fish, since Veraval is one of India's largest fishing ports. Lodges serve mild vegetarian buffets, and spice can be dialled down on request.

Nearby and related

Most guests pair Gir and Somnath with one or two of these on the same trip.

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