Monasteries of the Namgyal Kingdom
You visit Rumtek, Pemayangtse, Tashiding and Dubdi with a Buddhist studies guide, and stand at the 1642 coronation throne.
From US$1,775 per person
India › Sikkim
India's second smallest state was an independent Buddhist kingdom until 1975 and still feels like one. It holds the world's third highest mountain, a UNESCO park, the country's first fully organic farming system and a permit regime you need to understand before you book.
Sikkim covers only 7,096 square kilometres but rises from 300 metres in the southern foothills to 8,586 metres at the summit of Kangchenjunga, the third highest mountain on earth and the state's guardian deity. The Teesta river drains the whole territory. Because the altitude band is so compressed, you pass from subtropical forest through oak and rhododendron to glacier within a single day's drive north.
The Namgyal dynasty ruled Sikkim as a Buddhist kingdom from 1642, consecrated at Yuksom by three lamas from Tibet. It became a British protectorate, then an Indian protectorate, and voted to join India as its 22nd state in 1975. Lepcha people are the oldest inhabitants, with Bhutia and Nepali communities arriving later, which is why monasteries, Hindu temples and sacred mountains share the same landscape and calendar.
Two things make Sikkim unusual for a Western traveller. It became India's first fully organic state in 2016, banning chemical fertiliser and pesticide outright, so the cardamom, buckwheat and vegetables you eat here are grown under law. And Kangchenjunga National Park, inscribed by UNESCO in 2016 as a mixed natural and cultural site, protects both the glaciers and the sacred geography the Lepcha and Bhutia attach to them.
You travel as our guest, not as a booking number. One named person looks after you from the first video call to the drive back to the airport, and explains the meaning behind everything you are looking at.
In Sikkim that matters most where the crowds are thickest and the customs least familiar.
Hindu, Jain, Buddhist and Islamic dates follow lunar calendars, so each year shifts. We confirm every date against the panchang before a departure goes on sale.
| Festival | When | What happens |
|---|---|---|
| Losar | Feb-Mar | Tibetan and Bhutia new year, the state's biggest celebration, with cham masked dances at Rumtek and Pemayangtse and three days of household visiting; set by the lunar calendar |
| Pang Lhabsol | Aug-Sep | Uniquely Sikkimese: Kangchenjunga is honoured as the state's guardian with warrior Pangtoed cham dance and the renewal of the Lepcha and Bhutia blood-brotherhood oath |
| Saga Dawa | May-Jun | The holiest Buddhist month, marked on the full moon with monk processions through Gangtok carrying scriptures |
| Bumchu, Tashiding | Feb-Mar | The sacred water pot is opened once a year at Tashiding monastery and the level read to predict the year ahead |
| Losoong and Namsoong | Dec | The Bhutia and Lepcha harvest new year, with archery contests, Kagyed masked dance and the burning of old grievances |
| Dashain and Tihar | Oct-Nov | The Nepali-majority population keeps both, with family blessings, swings and then lamps, garlands and Bhai Tika |
| Drupka Teshi | Jul-Aug | The Buddha's first sermon, marked at Deer Park in Gangtok and with yak races at Muguthang in the far north |
| International Flower Festival | Apr-May | Orchid and rhododendron displays in Gangtok, timed to the state's flowering season of over 500 orchid species |
Ranked the way a local host would feed you, starting with the dish you should not leave without.
High lakes are frozen from December to February and the North Sikkim roads can close with snow, while rivers run hardest and most dangerously in the June to September monsoon, when landslides are common. Do not bathe in Tsomgo, Gurudongmar or Khecheopalri, which are sacred and bitterly cold, and raft the Teesta only with licensed operators.
Properties we would put our own guests in. Your package includes the level you choose, and we hold rooms before festival dates.
| Place | What it is |
|---|---|
| MG Marg, Gangtok | A pedestrianised, no-smoking, no-spitting high street of cafes and bars, the state's social centre |
| Casino Sikkim and Mayfair casino | Sikkim is one of very few Indian states licensing casinos, both attached to Gangtok hotels |
| Tongba houses | Local rooms serving hot millet beer through a bamboo straw, the real drinking tradition here |
| Monastery cham dance | Masked ritual dance at Rumtek, Pemayangtse and Enchey around Losar, Pang Lhabsol and Kagyed in December |
| Live music on MG Marg | Gangtok has a genuine small live scene, with Nepali rock and blues bands in the pubs at weekends |
| Chaang and village evenings | Fermented millet and rice beer served at homestays in Dzongu and West Sikkim, with folk songs |
| Note on alcohol | Unlike Bihar, Sikkim is not dry and alcohol is cheap and widely available, including local brews |
| Airport or route | Detail |
|---|---|
| Bagdogra (IXB), West Bengal | The practical gateway, 125 km from Gangtok, 4 to 4.5 hours by road through the Teesta valley |
| Pakyong (PYG) | Sikkim's own airport, 30 km from Gangtok, with limited and weather-dependent domestic flights |
| From the UK and Europe | Hub into Delhi or Kolkata, then fly to Bagdogra, then drive; allow two travel days to reach Gangtok |
| From the USA | Gulf carrier to Delhi or Kolkata, overnight, then the morning flight to Bagdogra and the afternoon drive |
| Helicopter, Bagdogra to Gangtok | A 30-minute service that saves four hours when the weather allows, with a strict baggage limit |
| Permit note | Foreign nationals collect the Inner Line Permit at Rangpo on the road in, or in advance in Siliguri or Delhi |
| Route or station | Detail |
|---|---|
| New Jalpaiguri (NJP) | The nearest railhead, 120 km from Gangtok, since Sikkim has no railway of its own |
| Vande Bharat Express, Howrah to NJP | Day train from Kolkata in roughly 7.5 hours, then a 4 to 4.5-hour drive |
| Darjeeling Mail | Sealdah to NJP overnight in about 10 hours, the traditional approach |
| Siliguri Junction | A secondary station closer to the Sikkim road, used by some regional services |
| Sevoke Road station | On the Teesta valley line, occasionally useful for the Kalimpong and Sikkim road |
| Future line | The Sevoke to Rangpo railway is under construction and not yet open, so plan on road transfers |
Mid-March to May for rhododendron and orchids, and October to early December for the sharpest mountain views. Avoid June to September, when the monsoon brings landslides, and January, when snow closes the North Sikkim roads for days at a time.
| Months | Season | Day temperature | What to expect |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mar-May | Spring | 15-22°C / 59-72°F | Rhododendron and orchid season in Gangtok and Pelling; North Sikkim valleys at 5-15°C with snow still on the passes |
| Jun-Sep | Monsoon | 17-24°C / 63-75°F | Heavy rain and frequent landslides on the North Sikkim roads; the season to avoid |
| Oct-Nov | Autumn | 12-20°C / 54-68°F | The clearest Kangchenjunga views of the year, dry trails and comfortable days |
| Dec-Feb | Winter | 4-13°C / 39-55°F | Gangtok cold but open; North Sikkim below freezing with snow closing roads to Yumthang and Gurudongmar |
Per person, twin sharing, excluding international flights. Hotels, private transport, guides, entries, your trip manager and 24-hour support are included.
You visit Rumtek, Pemayangtse, Tashiding and Dubdi with a Buddhist studies guide, and stand at the 1642 coronation throne.
From US$1,775 per person
You attend the warrior cham dance for the state's guardian mountain, the one festival found nowhere outside Sikkim.
From US$1,600 per person
You drive from 1,650 metres to above 5,000, with protected-area permits arranged and two acclimatisation nights built in.
From US$1,950 per person
You follow Tibetan new year through masked dances, butter sculpture and household visiting with a Bhutia family.
From US$1,550 per person
You work a day on an organic farm, walk the state's only tea estate and cook with fermented greens in a Lepcha kitchen.
From US$1,475 per person
You walk the lower trails of the UNESCO park, bathe in the Yumthang sulphur springs and finish with a monastery retreat day.
From US$2,100 per person
Add any of these to a tour. A host stays beside you and tells you what is happening and why it is done that way.
A week before Losar, the monks let you sit in the courtyard while they rehearse the cham cycle without masks, correcting each other's footwork. The dance master explains which deity each sequence summons and why the mask changes the dancer.
A Gangtok-district family puts you to work on buckwheat, large cardamom and squash on terraces where chemical fertiliser has been illegal since 2016. Over lunch they explain what full organic certification did to their yields and their prices.
In the Lepcha reserve a family demonstrates the bamboo bow, cane bridges and the river fishing their community has used for centuries. They explain why Dzongu is closed to outsiders without a permit and what the dam protests were about.
A scholar at the Namgyal Institute brings out illuminated Tibetan manuscripts and explains how thangkas are read as teaching diagrams. You then join the late afternoon prayer at the adjoining Do-Drul Chorten.
It was an independent Buddhist kingdom until 1975 and still reads as one: monasteries of 1641 and 1705, the coronation throne at Yuksom, and Kangchenjunga at 8,586 metres treated as a living deity rather than a view. It is also India's first fully organic state and holds a UNESCO mixed World Heritage park.
Every foreign visitor needs an Inner Line Permit, also called a Restricted Area Permit, issued free at Rangpo on the way in or in advance at Siliguri, Kolkata or Delhi. Separate protected-area permits are required for North Sikkim, meaning Lachung, Yumthang and Gurudongmar, and for Tsomgo Lake. We arrange all of them.
No. Nathu La is open to Indian nationals with a permit but foreign nationals are generally not permitted there, and the rule is enforced at the checkpost. Tsomgo Lake, lower down the same road at 3,780 metres, is open to foreigners with a protected-area permit, which needs two working days to process.
Mid-March to May for rhododendron and over 500 orchid species, with Gangtok at 15-22°C, and October to early December for the clearest Kangchenjunga views at 12-20°C. The June to September monsoon brings landslides that close roads. In January, snow shuts the North Sikkim valleys for days.
Serious. Gangtok at 1,650 metres and Pelling at 2,150 are fine, but Gurudongmar sits above 5,000 metres and Yumesamdong at about 4,600, where altitude sickness is a genuine risk. We build two acclimatisation nights into every northern itinerary, limit the time above 5,000 metres and carry oxygen in the vehicle.
Yes, and the permit does not replace it. Apply online for the India e-Visa four to five days before travel, then collect the Inner Line Permit on arrival at Rangpo with two passport photographs and photocopies of your passport and visa. Carry several spare copies, since each protected-area permit needs its own set.
Our ground cost runs from about US$1,180 for the six-night organic farming and tea itinerary to US$1,680 for eight nights of walking in Kangchenjunga park. The monastery circuit is US$1,420 for seven nights, North Sikkim US$1,560 and the Pang Lhabsol and Losar festival trips US$1,280 and US$1,240.
It is one of the safest and cleanest states in India, with low crime, high literacy and a strong environmental ethic, including bans on plastic bottles in some areas. Solo women travel here comfortably. The real risks are road landslides, altitude and weather, which is why we use experienced hill drivers and keep buffer days.
Expect momo, thukpa, fermented greens, soft yak cheese with fiddlehead fern, buckwheat and plenty of pork in Bhutia homes. Because the state is fully organic, the vegetables are excellent. Vegetarians eat very well and vegans reasonably, though cheese, curd and butter tea are everywhere, so brief us before you travel.
Pang Lhabsol in August or September is the one you cannot see anywhere else: Kangchenjunga is honoured as the state's guardian with warrior masked dance and the renewal of the Lepcha and Bhutia blood-brotherhood oath. Losar in February or March is bigger and more domestic. Both follow the lunar calendar.
Each has a full guide of its own, with its own food, heritage, hotels, trains and tours.