Location · Mar - Jun and Sep - Nov
Lake Town and Kumaon Ridges
Colonial Nainital with a local historian, the cable car to Snow View and two nights facing a 300 km snow skyline
From US$1,100 per person
Overview
Nainital occupies a natural bowl at 2,084 m, with a two-kilometre lake at the bottom and oak and pine ridges climbing around it. The lake is tectonic in origin and the town wraps the shore in two halves, Mallital at the top end and Tallital at the bottom, joined by the flat promenade known as the Mall. Naina Devi temple stands at the northern shore, and the Kumaoni name for the lake predates the colonial town by centuries.
The British arrival in 1841 turned it into the summer capital of the United Provinces. They built St John in the Wilderness in 1844, founded a yacht club whose wooden boats still race, and planted the boarding schools that educated generations of Indian officials. Landslip has always threatened the bowl: a catastrophic slide in 1880 buried part of the town and led to the drainage works that still crisscross the hillsides.
The reason to come is less the town than what surrounds it. Snow View and Tiffin Top look across to Nanda Devi and the Panchachuli group on clear mornings, and the lake district below town, Bhimtal, Sattal and Naukuchiatal, is one of the best birding areas in the Indian Himalaya. Binsar, Kausani and the Jageshwar temple grove lie within three hours for anyone going deeper into Kumaon.
Hand-held, every step
You travel as our guest, not as a booking number. One named person looks after you from the first video call to the drive back to the airport, and explains the meaning behind everything you are looking at.
In Nainital that matters most where the crowds are thickest and the customs least familiar.
- Airport welcome with a name board, a local SIM and your first rupees sorted
- One trip manager on WhatsApp for the whole journey, answering within the hour
- Guides who explain each ritual, dish and carving as you meet it
- Reserved, safe places at festivals rather than the crush
- A real part in a puja, a wedding or a family celebration if you want one
- Female guide on request, vetted drivers, and no shopping-commission stops
Festivals worth planning a trip around
Hindu, Jain, Buddhist and Islamic dates follow lunar calendars, so each year shifts. We confirm every date against the panchang before a departure goes on sale.
| Festival | When | What happens |
|---|---|---|
| Nanda Devi Mahotsav | August to September | Nainital's main fair at the Naina Devi temple, with processions, folk music and a crafts market |
| Kumaoni Holi | February to March | A sung Holi of seated classical baithaks held over several weeks before the colour day |
| Winter Carnival | December to January | Boat races, ice-skating when the rink freezes and parades along the Mall |
| Harela | July | A Kumaoni sowing festival where indoor-grown seedlings are offered at the temples and planted |
| Uttarayani | 14 January | A solar-calendar bathing and fair day, marked at Bageshwar and across the Kumaon hills |
| Diwali on the lake | October to November | Lamps along the Mall and reflections across the water; the date follows the lunar calendar |
Food to try in Nainital
Ranked the way a local host would feed you, starting with the dish you should not leave without.
- Bal mithaiAlmora's dark khoya fudge rolled in white sugar pearls, sold at the Mall's sweet shops
- Bhatt ki churkaniBlack soybean cooked into a dark gravy, the standard Kumaoni lunch with rice
- Aloo ke gutkeCumin and chilli potatoes finished with hemp seed, served as a hill breakfast or side
- SingoriKhoya wrapped in a fresh malu leaf cone, eaten the same day it is made
- Mandua rotiFinger millet bread with ghee, the winter staple of Kumaoni households
- Raita with hemp seedCucumber yoghurt sharpened with roasted bhang seed and mustard, served with every meal
- Gahat ke phaanuHorse gram soup, slow-cooked overnight and considered warming in cold weather
- Trout and lake fishHill trout from Kumaon streams, grilled at the lakeside hotels and the better restaurants
- Kumaoni raasA mixed lentil preparation cooked to a thin gravy, eaten over rice at village meals
- Fruit preserves and rhododendron juiceApricot and plum jams and a tart rhododendron squash sold at the Mall's old shops
Heritage sites in Nainital
- Naina Devi templeA Shakti Peetha on the lake's north shore, rebuilt after the 1880 landslide destroyed it
- St John in the WildernessAn 1844 stone church in deodar forest, with memorials to victims of the 1880 slide
- Nainital Boat House ClubA colonial yacht club founded in the 1890s, still racing wooden one-design dinghies
- Raj BhavanAn 1899 Gothic governor's residence modelled on Buckingham Palace, with a golf course
- Gurney HouseThe home of the hunter and conservationist Jim Corbett, preserved with his belongings
- Jageshwar temple groupOver 100 stone temples of the 7th to 12th centuries in a deodar grove, 100 km northeast
- Sherwood and Birla schoolsVictorian boarding schools on the ridges, built to educate the empire's administrators
- Mukteshwar templeAn old Shiva shrine at 2,315 m on a cliff edge, 50 km away, with a long Himalayan view
Places to visit in Nainital
- Naini lake and the MallRowing boats, the flat lakeside promenade and the town's entire social life
- Snow ViewA ridge at 2,270 m reached by cable car, with Nanda Devi visible on clear days
- Tiffin Top and Dorothy's SeatA walk or pony ride to a stone bench with a 270-degree view over the Kumaon hills
- SattalA cluster of seven interconnected lakes 22 km away, the best birding in the district
- Bhimtal and NaukuchiatalLarger, quieter lakes below town with kayaking and lakeside guest houses
- BinsarA sanctuary ridge at 2,420 m, 90 km away, with a 300 km Himalayan panorama
- KausaniA ridge village with one of the longest snow-peak views in India, three hours northeast
- MukteshwarCliff-edge temple and orchard country, quiet and far less visited than Nainital
Waterfalls, lakes and wild places
These are hill lakes rather than rivers, at their clearest from October to November and again in March. The waterfalls run only with the monsoon from July to September. Boating on Naini lake is licensed and life jackets are provided, but swimming is prohibited because the lake is deep, cold and the town's drinking water source.
- Naini lakeTown centre. A two-kilometre tectonic lake at 2,084 m, with rowing boats and a yacht club
- Sattal22 km. Seven linked lakes in oak forest, among the finest Himalayan birding sites
- Bhimtal22 km. The largest lake in the district, with an island restaurant and kayaking
- Naukuchiatal26 km. A nine-cornered lake, deep and quiet, popular for paddling and angling
- Khurpatal12 km. A small green lake in a forested bowl below the town, good for birds
- Bhalu Gaad waterfallNear Mukteshwar. A forest cascade with a stepped path, strongest from July to September
Where to stay in Nainital
Properties we would put our own guests in. Your package includes the level you choose, and we hold rooms before festival dates.
- The Naini RetreatAyarpatta slope. A former Raja of Pilibhit's house overlooking the lakeHeritage
- Balrampur HouseMallital. The Raja of Balrampur's old summer home, run by the family as a hotelHeritage
- The PavilionMallital. A restored colonial building near the flats, quiet and well locatedBoutique
- Shervani HilltopMallital. Long-established cottages in an orchard garden above the townUpscale
- Vikram Vintage InnMallital. A mid-size hotel with lawns and views, dependable and family-runMid-range
- Te ArohaDhanachuli, 60 km. A small hill lodge with Himalayan views and serious home cookingBoutique
- Binsar forest rest housesBinsar sanctuary. Simple forest department bungalows inside the reserveMid-range
- Sattal lakeside guest housesSattal, 22 km. Birding-focused lodges beside the lake clusterMid-range
Evenings out and culture
| Place | What it is |
|---|---|
| Boat House Club | A colonial yacht club with wooden dinghies, a ballroom and temporary membership for visitors |
| Kumaoni Holi baithaks | Seated classical singing sessions held in houses and halls through the Holi weeks |
| Mall Road evening promenade | The town's social ritual, walking the flat lakeside between Mallital and Tallital |
| Nanda Devi Mahotsav performances | Folk music, dance and crafts at the temple fair in late summer |
| Jagar ritual singing | Kumaoni invocation drumming and singing in the villages, arranged through local hosts |
| Hotel bars and the old cafes | Uttarakhand is not dry outside the pilgrim towns, so Nainital has bars and bakeries of long standing |
Getting to Nainital by air
| Airport or route | Detail |
|---|---|
| Pantnagar (PGH) | 70 km and about two hours; limited domestic flights, mainly from Delhi |
| Delhi (DEL) | 300 km and seven to eight hours by road, or five and a half hours by train to Kathgodam |
| From the UK and Europe | Non-stop to Delhi from Heathrow, Frankfurt, Paris or Amsterdam, then the Kathgodam Shatabdi |
| From the USA | Delhi non-stop from New York, Newark, Chicago or San Francisco, then rail and a hill transfer |
| Transfer note | We favour the train to Kathgodam over the Pantnagar flight, which is small and often rescheduled |
Trains and road to Nainital
| Route or station | Detail |
|---|---|
| Kathgodam (KGM) | The Kumaon railhead at 35 km, with taxis and shared jeeps for the 90-minute climb |
| Shatabdi Express from Delhi | A late afternoon service reaching Kathgodam in about five and a half hours |
| Ranikhet Express | An overnight Delhi service arriving at Kathgodam early morning, useful for a full first day |
| Uttarakhand Sampark Kranti | A long-distance connection linking Kathgodam with Delhi and beyond |
| No rail above Kathgodam | The hills have no railway, so every onward journey is by road |
Weather, seasons and best time to visit Nainital
March to June and October to November, with 12 to 27°C days and clear Himalayan views in autumn. December and January bring snow at 4 to 14°C. Avoid July and August, when the hills slip and the peaks stay hidden behind cloud.
| Months | Season | Day temperature | What to expect |
|---|---|---|---|
| December to February | Winter | 4-14°C / 39-57°F | Snow in most Januaries, frosty mornings and the quietest, clearest weeks of the year |
| March to April | Spring | 12-22°C / 54-72°F | Rhododendron on the ridges, excellent visibility and comfortable walking |
| May to June | Peak season | 16-27°C / 61-81°F | Warm and extremely busy with Indian holiday families; book accommodation early |
| July to November | Monsoon then autumn | 9-24°C / 48-75°F | Heavy July and August rain with landslide risk, then crisp, clear October and November |
Nainital tour packages
Per person, twin sharing, excluding international flights. Hotels, private transport, guides, entries, your trip manager and 24-hour support are included.
Wildlife · Nov - Apr
Birding the Kumaon Lake District
Dawn sessions with a Himalayan bird guide across the seven lakes, with forest hides and over 200 species possible
From US$1,150 per person
Festival · Fixed dates - Feb/Mar 2027
Kumaoni Holi in Song
Attend the seated baithak singing sessions, learn the ragas used and join the colour day with a hill family
From US$1,112 per person
Tradition · Mar - Jun and Sep - Nov
Jageshwar, Jagar and Hill Kitchens
The deodar temple grove with an archaeologist, a jagar drumming night and a bal mithai lesson in Almora
From US$1,325 per person
Wellness · Mar - Jun and Sep - Nov
Slow Ridges Above the Lakes
Orchard walks, long mountain views, hill-food kitchens and one short drive every other day
From US$1,350 per person
Take part, don't just watch
Add any of these to a tour. A host stays beside you and tells you what is happening and why it is done that way.
Sailing a wooden dinghy on Naini lake
A member of the century-old yacht club rigs one of the club's wooden one-design boats and takes you out on the afternoon breeze that funnels through the bowl. He explains the racing calendar and how the fleet survived decades of silting and storms.
A jagar night in a Kumaoni village
A hereditary singer performs jagar, the all-night ritual invocation in which a deity is called into a medium through drumming and verse. He explains the lineage of each song and which local god it belongs to, with a translator beside you throughout.
Dawn birding at Sattal
A Kumaoni bird guide who has worked these lakes for twenty years puts you in a forest hide before sunrise for laughing thrushes, forktails and the occasional Himalayan rubythroat. He explains why this patch of oak forest holds so many species.
Making singori in an Almora sweet shop
A confectioner shows you how to fold fresh khoya into a cone of malu leaf, a sweet that must be eaten the same day because the leaf flavours it as it sits. He talks through how Kumaoni sweets travelled with migrant workers to the plains.
Questions travellers ask about Nainital
Why should I visit Nainital?
For a Himalayan lake town that kept its Victorian bones. There is a yacht club racing wooden dinghies, an 1844 church in deodar forest, and Jim Corbett's own house preserved with his things in it. Half an hour below, the Sattal lakes are among the best birding spots in the Indian Himalaya.
When is the best time to visit Nainital?
March to June and October to November. Spring brings 12 to 22°C and rhododendron, autumn gives the clearest views of Nanda Devi, and May and June are warm but packed with Indian holidaymakers. Snow usually falls in January at 4 to 14°C. July and August bring landslides and cloud.
Is Nainital safe for visitors, including solo women?
Yes. It is a school and tourist town with a visible police presence, low crime and a flat, busy promenade that stays lively into the evening. Solo women travel here without difficulty. The genuine hazards are steep unlit lanes, monsoon landslips and winter ice on the ridge paths above the Mall.
Do I need a visa or permits for Nainital?
Only the Indian e-Visa, which US, UK and EU citizens apply for online before travel. No permits are needed in Nainital or the Kumaon lake district. Binsar and the other sanctuaries charge forest entry fees that we include, and trekking towards the inner-line areas near Tibet requires separate clearance.
What does a Nainital trip cost?
Ground costs are about US$880 per person for four nights across Nainital and Binsar, US$890 for the Kumaoni Holi departure, US$920 for four nights of lake district birding, US$1,060 for five nights including Jageshwar and US$1,080 for a slow five-night ridge itinerary with hotels, car and guides.
How many days do I need in Nainital?
Three nights for the lake, the viewpoints and Corbett's house. Four or five if you want Binsar's panorama, the Sattal birding or the Jageshwar temples, all of which involve two to three hours of hill driving each way. Nainital also pairs naturally with three nights at Jim Corbett below.
What is Kumaoni food like, and can vegetarians eat well?
It is mild, millet-based and built on pulses that grow at altitude, particularly black soybean and horse gram, with hemp seed used as a souring agent. Vegetarians eat very well indeed, as most village cooking is meat-free. Vegans should be careful about ghee, curd and the khoya in every local sweet.
How do I get to Nainital from Delhi?
Take the late afternoon Shatabdi or the overnight Ranikhet Express from Delhi to Kathgodam, five and a half hours, then a pre-booked car for the 35 km climb, which takes about 90 minutes. Driving the whole way takes seven to eight hours. Pantnagar flights exist but are small and often rescheduled.
Nearby and related
Most guests pair Nainital with one or two of these on the same trip.